Good additions are kale or dulse that have been crisped up in the oven or frying pan before being crumbled into the spuds You have to use some mashed potato as a base and then stir or mash in leftover boiled cabbage, broccoli, carrots or whatever you have. It’s hard to give amounts as it is just left-overs: Well, here is my recipe for the more familiar – and surprisingly modern – bubble and squeak. It cannot be a coincidence that the dish went from beef-based to potato-based at around the same time as the Second World War and rationing. Indeed recipes for it in this form run right up the mid-twentieth century. This recipe goes back as far as the mid-eighteenth century. The beef should be thinly sliced and fried up with chopped boiled cabbage in butter and some salt and pepper.
In The complete economical cook, and frugal housewife: an entirely new system, Mary Holland – in 1837 – describes a recipe that makes use of leftover boiled beef, not potatoes. It turns out it didn’t begin life as fried mashed potato patties, but as something quite different. It’s difficult to give a recipe for it as you just have to use whatever vegetables you have leftover from a nice roast dinner. Bubble and squeak is one of my favourite left-over foods.
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